
Djemaa el Fna at night
Marrakech, Morocco – Sunday, 6.49pm: For the second time today I’m back in my room in the riad, psyching myself up to go back out into the city. This time its dusk and I want to check out Djemaa el Fna at night.
7.00pm: The square is now filled with dozens and dozens of food carts, more fortune tellers, musicians, tourists and thousands and thousands of Moroccans here for a night out. I take a bench at a cart and for 50DH (about £4) I fill up on kefta (meat) skewers, salad, flat bread and fries.
7.29pm: I get talking to Andrew, sitting opposite me at the food cart. He arrived in town today from the UK. We go out into the night determined to try anything that looks interesting. We try a bowl of snail soup each for 10DH. It’s a bit like eating salty boogers. To wash it down we first try freshly squeezed orange juice (3DH) and then stop by a tea stand for mint tea (5DH).

The ruins of Palais el Badi
8.02pm: I figure because I am a customer the chances of being allowed to take a photo of the stand are good. I ask permission from the owner and he says yes. I snap off a few frames. “Dirham for photos!” He demands.
8.10pm: We stop by several of the fortune tellers and musicians, who all have large crowds gathered around them. Andrew holds his camera up to snap a frame. As soon as the flash fires he has demands for dirham from half a dozen people who claim they were in the photo. He deletes it instead.
Monday, 9.01am: Morning and I’m on my way to the Palais el Badi, enormous ruins to the south of the main square. On my way a Moroccan man approaches. “Palais el Badi?” He asks. I nod, more in vague agreement than anything. He takes it to mean he is now my official navigator charged with showing me the way to the palace and walks the last 50 metres with me to the entrance. He then demands dirham.

Deep in the souks of Marrakech
10.44am: I’m back in the souks one last time, stocking up on spices and presents. I’ve struggled to get a decent photo that really captures the atmosphere down here in the narrow lanes . Finally I spot an alley with beams of white light shining into the gloom. I shoot off a frame and keep walking.
13.30pm: My bus south to Agadir, and the surf, is an hour late. I end up spending 25 hours in total in Marrakech.